It has been decades since Mitch and I were last in Nassau. I returned this weekend, and I was amazed at its transformation.
In the mid and late 90s, we went on a couple of cruises to the Bahamas. One on the Carnival cruise ship Fantasy and the other was one of the final voyages of the Dolphin IV. I will try to find a photo of that ship (The Carnival ship is below), but for context, the travel books called the Dolphin IV “a battered by seaworthy vessel.” That cruise cost $99 for a four-day cruise. And, as we left port, the ship was rocked so wildly by the waves that the water splashed out of the ship’s swimming pools! The Carnival Fantasy seemed enormous by comparison. It is dwarfed by today’s ships.
This past week, the ships I saw in port in Nassau were many times the size of this Carnival ship of the mid-90s, a ship that felt enormous at the time.
Side Quest: I found a photo of the Dolphin IV online. I also learned that it was decommissioned shortly after our trip. It was built by Germany in 1956 as war reparations for Israel. In 1978, it was acquired and operated by Cape Canaveral Cruise Lines for 3 and 4 day cruises to The Bahamas. But in 2000, it was holed up in Freeport because of “wastewater corrosion issues” and it never sailed again. It was a fabulous classic ship with so much mahogany and brass. It felt like we were on the Titanic.
Now back to this week. I spoke with local business owners about how downtown Nassau has changed since the 1990s. More cruise passengers come today, but a much smaller percentage of them actually leave the ship and visit Nassau. Many prefer to stay on the ship – and the cruise operators like it that way. Cruise ships of the 1990s had pools and buffets; now they have water parks and endless entertainment. And while cruise lines offer more choices, the ports themselves are starting to look similar, filled with the same T-shirt shops, jewelry stores, and less local culture. In the 90s, going into port was an exotic adventure. Today. it’s viewed by many as a hassle. How can the Bahamian citizens benefit from all these cruise ships visiting their islands if the passengers won’t leave the ship and experience the rich and beautiful culture of the country? That’s a problem that I believe can be solved.
I recall when we were last in the Bahamas in the 1990s, there was a resort being built that the locals were very excited about. They said it was going to be bigger than anything anyone has ever seen. Mitch and I thought it would be too bougie (and too expensive) for our taste, but we were happy for the impact it would have on the local economy.
I have never stayed at Atlantis. I still have not seen it since it was completed. But this past week, I stayed at a new resort that dwarfs Atlantis like the ships of today dwarf that Carnival ship of the 90s: Baha Mar. I got to Baha Mar before check in and sat by the pool working on cases for a few hours.
And, while I normally prefer the residential feeling of a place much more than a resort, I also love a nice relaxing hotel room and not having to think about much. I didn’t have to think about much at all at Baha Mar, and that felt very good.
I relaxed. I have had some water fears that surfaced in adulthood on a scuba diving excursion in 2010. Since then, I try to get into the water when I can to reassure myself that it’s okay. I also love sunrise. Here is a photo of me in the ocean at sunrise this week. I took morning walks each day and almost no one was out. I had the place to myself. Just a few hours later, the beach would be crowded.
But my favorite experience on this trip was my daily (even multiple times a day) visits with the flamingos.
I have loved flamingos since I was a kid. These beautiful pink birds get their color from the brine shrimp they eat. They are born white and gradually turn pink as they eat the shrimp. Flamingos were once endangered, but thanks to efforts of the Bahamian government and the Audubon Society, the flamingo population is now in excess of 80,000! The flamingo is the national bird of the Bahamas and it is obvious how much they are beloved and protected by the Bahamian people.
Each morning at Baha Mar, weather permitting, several “avian specialist” employees lead the ambassador flamingos on a short parade through the sidewalks to a clearing where they educate the guests about these amazing birds. Did you know that flamingos can fly very high and for long distances? And sometimes they leave their area of the resort and the employees set out to find them.
When I found out that I could have a personal encounter with flamingos for just $110, I raced to book it. I consider that to be a lot of money, but I have had dinners that cost more and were not nearly as memorable. Meeting those flamingos could not have been more special.
I wore a pink dress and they tried to fluff my feathers for me!
So how are these wild animals so friendly? Well, not all of them are wild. Wild flamingos were raised by flamingos. But in Baha Mar, there are several flamingos known as “ambassador flamingos.” Ambassador flamingos were raised from eggs by humans. Ambassador flamingos socialize like pets. They are curious and can be goofy and mischievous. They have become accustomed to humans loving them and protecting them, so ambassador flamingos have grown to be very friendly and interactive.
I am in love with the ambassador flamingos of the Bahamas.
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